Natural leather is the most common material used in shoe manufacturing.
Available in wide range of styles, colors and finishes.
Most leather used in shoe manufacturing made from cowhide
Lamb and deerskin used for softer leather in more expensive shoes.
Advantages:
durable
flexible
breathable
can be stretched – conforms to the wearers foot
Disadvantages:
heavier
can get hot
susceptible to water damage
Grain:
This is the top layer that carries the surface markings of the animals skin
Different animals have different grains.
Thickness:
Vairs from 0.4mm (goat) to 6.0mm (buffalo)
Temper:
Measure of leathers pliability and softness
Firm leather –> soles, stacked heels and heel counters
Softest leather –> baby shoes
Manufacture of leather:
Hide can make 3 or 4 layers of leather when split
Process:
Takes 10 or so days
1. Curing – salting, chilling; facilitates shipping
2. Soaking – soaked in water; for hrs to days
3. Liming – removes epidermis and hair from the hide using alkaline compounds to break collagen crosslinks
4. Fleshing – machine to mechanically remove remaining animal flesh
5. Deliming – to neutralize the alkali pH in the hide
6. Bating – enzymes to stabilize the hide
7. Pickling – mild acidic pH
8. Degreasing – solvents to remove any excess grease or fat
9. Tanning – process that creates collagen crosslinks; rotating drum with tanning chemical for a few hours – quite variable depending on final product needed.
10. Splitting – divided into multiple layers; use splitting and shaving machines
11. Neutralization – removes residual chemicals
12. Dyeing – many methods
13. Samming – reduces water content; mechanical
14. Setting out – leather is stretched
15. Final drying – several methods
16. Finishing – eg oiling; brushing; padding; buffing’ roller coating; embossing; etc
17. Grading –
Leathers used in shoe making:
Full-grain leather – hides has not had top surface modified and grain remains
Full-grain leathers include:
Aniline leather – most natural looking
Semi-aniline leather – more durable; has light surface coating
Nu-buck leather – full grain leather with the top grain surface sanded or buffed
Pigmented leather – most durable; has a polymer surface coating
Full-grain pigmented leather – grain surface left intact before polymer coating
Top-grain leather –
Corrected grain leather – artificial grain applied to surface
‘Crazy horse oiled’ leather – cowhide
Patent leather – used in high fashion shoes
Action leather – split leather with polyurethane film laminated; wide range of colours
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Page last updated:
Leather now replaced by synthetic material in a lots of applications – mostly due to cost.
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